This piece from the Florida Panhandle is extra chill and extra beautiful

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Funky or bougie, this is where you’ll find your ideal Florida.

Upscale Alys Beach is just one of many stops along 30A. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

Upscale Alys Beach is just one of many stops along 30A. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

Blue, aquamarine and brownish eddies like water colors as a coastal dune lake slowly pours into the Gulf of Mexico. When I watch this scene and feel comfortably cool in the salty breeze, I forget for a second that less than an hour along the beach is a completely different world: one of the kitschy nightclubs, overcrowded promenades and gaudy box hotels.

South Walton has that kind of transportation effect. This is one of the most impressive IYKYN situations in the Sunshine State. And now you know too.

South Walton is a sleepy area of ​​the Panhandle made up of 16 laid-back beach communities. It’s just a stones throw from some of Florida’s most popular beach destinations – about 10 miles from Destin and 30 miles from Panama City Beach – but it feels like it’s light years away. It’s everything you love about Florida – soft white beaches, turquoise waters (they don’t call it the Emerald Coast for nothing), seafood, and marine life – minus the overpriced crowd and gross commercialization.

Beach view
A coastal dune lake flows into the gulf at Grayton Beach. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

South Walton is also home to the 30A Coastal Highway, a compact 24-mile stretch of beautiful sights that follow one another. Here are you literally forced to slow down a bit. Cities alternate between funky and casual (like Grayton Beach, home of iconic divers Red bar) to exclusive and chic (like Seaside, what you might call from a little movie The Truman Show.) In other words, flip flops are fine, but there is also the option of putting on a sparkling dress for dinner. You do you.

Here are the key stops along this criminally overlooked piece of florid sky hiding in the panhandle.

Hotel pool
Post at the newly opened Hotel Effie. | Courtesy Visit South Walton

Overnight: Miramar beach

Miramar Beach is South Walton’s busiest neighborhood, making it an ideal base camp for a 30A vacation. Here you can find Sandestin, a 2,400 acre complex of vacation rentals, hotels, restaurants and four Golf courses– so pack your rackets.

But it’s hard to resist the allure of Hotel Effiewhich opened in February. The 250-room hotel is shiny and new, but most of all it’s home to a rooftop pool and a bar called Ara with panoramic views of the bay. The drinks menu was put together by nationally acclaimed bartender Kellie Thorn, so expect strong cocktails that are beautifully presented (their piña colada with roasted coconut is a head-turner). Plus the in-house restaurant, OvideHe is supported by celebrity chef Hugh Acheson. The hotel is not on the beach, but is only five minutes away on the free tram.

If you’d rather stay in the heart of 30A, consider a room below. Reserve The Pearl at Rosemary Beach. The 55-room hotel is intimate and creates a sense of place with local art in its halls and an easily accessible private beach. Bonus points for the spa.

    Blue Mountain Beach Creamery
Take a break for paddling at the Blue Mountain Beach Creamery. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

Santa Rosa Beach

Natural beauty, art and indulgence are the three defining characteristics of South Walton’s largest community. The artist colony at is located on Santa Rosa Beach Golf course, the sprawling Point Washington State Forest, and beaches with powdery sand.

If donuts are an integral part of your vacation experience (they are for this writer), head to it Donut hut First thing in the morning: The store has a 77 year old recipe and offers a wide variety of flavors, with the simple old-fashioned still standing out. For a wider variety of carbohydrates go to Black Bear Bread Co. for pastries and sandwiches. Then a stop in the sunny yellow Blue Mountain Beach Creamery is mandatory for a scoop of lime cake or whatever is on the rotating menu.

All this enjoyment calls for … more enjoyment. Distillery 98 specializes in small batch vodka bottled in a remote warehouse. Their signature spirit, Dune Laker, is made from Florida-grown corn and filtered through oysters from the Gulf, adding something extra special to the flavor. For beer lovers, Idyll Hounds Brewing Company (right next door!) has 12 beers that change often but keep an eye out for the easy-to-drink Ghost Crab Pilsna.

For a taste of the art, visit Photography modewhere Chandler Williams sells his photographs that capture the dreamy landscapes of South Walton’s beaches and wetlands. Next door is Andy Saczynskis Gallery that is worth a stop to drool over quirky, funky art made from found materials.

Paddle boarding
Paddle the freshwater dune lakes at Grayton Beach State Park. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

Grayton Beach

Grayton Beach is a funky hamlet that offers eclectic charm, but its real appeal is one of America’s most unique coastal phenomena: Grayton Beach State Park, Home to three coastal dune lakes formed thousands of years ago when the sand created shallow pools. These lakes can only be found in a few countries in the world. South Walton has 15 – the only dune lakes in the United States besides Oregon.

Incredibly, these lakes are filled with fresh water even though they are only a few meters from the gulf. Consider renting a kayak and paddling around Western Lake to make the most of this unique property: if you go there in late spring, you can see the water lilies in bloom.

local art
Browse quirky local art in Grayton Beach. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

If you’re a diver, hit those Underwater art museum less than a mile from the shore of the park’s beach. It’s a permanent underwater sculpture garden with exhibits like that Grayt pineapplethat are a feast for the eyes for divers and a home for marine life.

Don’t leave without stopping by the icon Red bar. The place is popular for its kitschy decor (watch out for the disco ball) and fresh Gulf seafood. The restaurant burned down in 2019, but the community helped revitalize it a year later, right down to the artwork on the walls and posters on the ceiling. Then stroll through the neighborhood to see the colorful houses and the Art wall outdoors.

Alys Beach building
Get the Greece vibes at upscale Alys Beach. | Photo courtesy Visit South Walton

Alys Beach

As one of several planned developments along 30A, Alys Beach is reminiscent of Santorini with its crisp white architecture. It is the highest quality and most exclusive district: many amenities are taboo for visitors and there is a strict one Photo Policy. That said, it is a joy to walk along the lush landscaped paths. You can also Book a luxury rental if you want to stay there.

The new restaurant in the neighborhood, The citizen, has an atmosphere that suits its upscale locale. The beautifully designed dining room sets a coastal tone with its deep blue hue and gold accents in front of white walls. The standout dishes here are cooked in the wood-burning oven – think Korean-inspired smoked ribs – or caught locally, like the seared gulf grouper. Start with a Boardwalk Bound made from Empress Gin, Passion Fruit, and Velvet Falernum.

Rosemary beach
Rosemary Beach features colorful West Indies-style architecture. | Unsplash / Michael DeMarco

Rosemary beach

Stroll through the colorful city center and visit art galleries such as Curate30A and Space for contemporary art in the sea. When you’re there, grab a bite at the popular one Cowgirl kitchen, which serves casual Tex Mex, or opt for the upscale seafood dishes (literally: a rooftop terrace) at Pescado. This is a 18+ place for dinner, but all ages are welcome for brunch and lunch. Either way, it’s an ideal place to grab a table and a cocktail and take in the gulf views.

Beach
You may know Seaside from the Truman Show. | Sea, FL

Beach

In The Truman Show, Jim Carrey played a guy who unwittingly starred on a reality show set in an incredibly idyllic beach town. This is Seaside, and it took very little effort to make Truman’s hometown look like earthbound paradise, with pastel-colored houses and gorgeous beaches. Well worth a stop if you want to squeal with joy as you stroll through the city and stop at sights like the famous one white mail.

One of Seaside’s coolest features is Airstream Row. A group of restaurants – like Crpes du Soleil and Frost bites– Build a shop in Airstreams along 30A and add a little funk to the scenic landscape. If you’d prefer to sit down with a great view of the water, grab a table at the Bud & Alley’s Classic Gulf dishes like grilled shrimp and seafood gumbo are served here.

There’s more to Seaside than cute restaurants and buildings. Sundog books is an absolute must: an independent bookstore for 30 years. If you need a beach read or just want to support a cool local business, this is a worthwhile stop.

Good afternoon, good evening and indeed a good night.

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Lia Picard is an Atlanta-based journalist who writes on food, travel, and a variety of other topics. Your work appears in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Wine lover, and CNN travel.


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