Second skin: normalize wider skin tone options in beauty

In 1952, COTY launched Instant Beauty, a foundation that was available in six shades – Ivory, Beige, Rosy Beige, Fair, Blush, and Bronze. Fast forward 65 years to 2017: Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty launched 50 foundation colors and began with the so-called “Fenty Effect” or the normalization of a wide range of colors in cosmetic products.

As more brands embrace wider offerings, the focus has shifted beyond foundation to include other essentials like facial serum, tinted moisturizer, setting powder, and even shapewear that go beyond the limiting and often standard light, medium, and dark options.

Color match

Unlike the Pantone or Munsell schemes used in art and fashion, cosmetic shades are not standardized. The appearance of a “Medium Beige” or “Deep Honey” shade can vary greatly from brand to brand and also between different formulations within the same brand.

Range Rover

“It’s not the number of shades that matters, it’s accuracy, representation, and intent,” says Huda Beauty founder Huda Kattan, whose eyeshadow palettes from Huda Beauty Nude Obsessions ($ 29) are available in three shades for every skin tone. “People want to feel authentically and consciously represented. It’s about understanding the tones, undertones, and the variety of hues you want to create. So many brands, for marketing purposes, want the greatest number of hues to say they have the most, and I disagree with that approach. I am very conscious of the colors I create and we do a lot of tests to see what people are looking for, want and need. “

Representation matters

For supermodel Veronica Webb, who had front-row access to the best in makeup, skincare and fashion, the recent move toward inclusion has been a long time coming. “Not only is it more psychologically inviting for me to pick my exact shade of foundation or lingerie off the shelf, but it’s also more economical for me not to have to buy multiple products to cobble together the one product I need,” she said Says. “This concern multiplies exponentially in cosmetic procedures as well. Offering products and services with a commitment to diversity and inclusion saves me time and money. Even at the supermodel level, you can feel like a beauty outsider when the brands do not make an effort to include you in the group. “

Color wheel

While the beauty industry is at the forefront when it comes to shadow inclusivity, other industries are following suit. Band-Aid recently expanded its color palette to include the OurTone line of flesh-colored bandages for deeper skin tones.

In a true art-mimicking moment, Crayola launched a Colors of the World collection last year and hired MOB Beauty co-founder Victor Casale to make sure the skin tone-inspired shades are just right. “I created my first broad color palette more than 30 years ago with Studio Fix from MAC Cosmetic ($ 33), which I launched in 1988 with 28 shades,” he says. “Back then, in the 1980s, most of the product ranges comprised around 12 shades. In the 90s they rose to 18 and in the early morning hours to 24. “

“When consumers can’t find their shade, it’s annoying and disappointing, and they feel left out and unseen,” he explains. “You don’t connect to brands you don’t recognize. As a child, I could never find my color in a box of crayons and I was thrilled that Crayola contacted me to help design Colors of the World so that every child can find their color and feel seen. “

Comprehensive coverage

“I work with a very diverse clientele, so it is very important for me to have access to a wider range of colors, not just for the skin, but also for all facial features,” says celebrity makeup artist Ermahn Ospina, whose clients include Salma Hayek, Jordana Brewster and Rosario Dawson. “As an artist, I need to have all the tones and a variety of options that I can present to my clients.”

“I love NARS ‘Radiant Creamy Concealer ($ 30) for its consistency and ease of use on all skin types,” he adds. “I also love the variety of colors, from the very light Chantilly to Dark Coffee and all the other 26 shades in between.

Real shade

“Wider color palettes are important to not just one community, but to all communities and the beauty industry at large because they show a willingness to better involve everyone,” said Corey L. Hartman, dermatologist of Birmingham, MD, adding. Tinted sunscreens and serums help make skin care a more inclusive space. “Colorescience did a great job adding to its Sunforgettable Total Protection line, including the powder brushes and Face Shield Flex SPF. AlumierMD Moisture Matte Broad Spectrum SPF 40 ($ 48) also features technology that suits virtually every skin tone from the lightest to the deepest. One of my favorite skin care brands owned by Black, Black Opal, has an impressive line that caters to a wider range of needs. ”

Powder puff

With her olive skin tone, Lara Eurdolian of Pretty Connected says she struggled most of her career finding the right makeup colors and often had to mix base colors to create her own. “Now I have more options than ever to share with my followers, who also have different skin tones,” she explains. “Expanded color palettes and the ability to see swatches of color on different skin tones changed the game, even with something as simple as a setting powder. In the past, brands have brought out a standard, “universal” translucent powder, but now we’re seeing more banana, medium, and dark skin tones. Two of my favorites are the Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder ($ 39), which is now available in three shades, and the Beautyblender Bounce Soft Focus Gemstone Setting Powder ($ 32), which is available in five.

Under tones

For celebrity stylist Jessica Paster, whose clients include Freida Pinto, Emily Blunt, and Nicole Scherzinger, the various shades of the chest band have made styling much easier: “Underwear is the most important part of styling, and it’s so important to consider skin tones . White will always be seen under white clothing, and the same goes for black underwear under black outfits. The best way to achieve a seamless look is to match the client’s skin tone with her underwear as much as possible. Nues Breast Tape ($ 25) is great because not only does it get rid of all traces of straps and bra straps, but its variety of hues also makes it invisible under all tops and dresses, including sheer fabrics.

Celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez counts Skim’s shapewear as her choice for her extensive color palette. “It’s a brand that develops solutions like a second skin for every body,” she says. “I think their production and construction are excellent. The collection offers different sizes and nine skin tones, some bodies even have seasonal color options. “